N
NANCY. BRODERIE DE NANCY. Drawn-work was frequently embroidered in colors and that made at Nancy, Dresden and Hamburg was called Broderie de Nancy, Dresden Point and Hamburg Point.
NANKIN. Silk used in the blonde laces made at Bayeux, Caen and Chantilly early in the Eighteenth Century was made at Nankin, China, hence sometimes called Nankin lace.
NANTES. Most of the lace-makers of France were Protestants and the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, 1685, drove them out of the country by the thousands. From Alen-con alone 4,000 lace-makers fled, most of them settling in the Netherlands.
NAPLES. See Neapolitan.
NEAPOLITAN. Early Greek point laces, often called Roman or Reticella, were made in the Ionian Isles, Corfu, Venice, Naples, Rome, Florence and Milan. The term Neapolitan has clung to this type.
NEEDLE-POINT. The study of needle-point laces covers five distinct varieties: (1) the development of Reticella lace; (3) the Punto in Aria variety, openwork; (3) the padded or Venise point style; (4) the light quality of net laces; (5) the applique styles. The term needle-point applies to laces worked with a needle, as distinguished from those made by a bobbin, by darning, crocheting or other methods. The needle-point laces include Gros Point, Venise, Rose Point, Argentella, Alencon, Burano, Carnaval and Convent. Needlework is not necessarily needle-point. The needle is used for darning, or for overcasting, but only.when used in the button-hole stitch is the lace thus produced called needfc-point.
NETHERLANDS. (See Holland, Belgium, Flanders and Brabant.) The laces of the Netherlands were originally bobbin laces but at the period of the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, 1685, the Protestant lace-makers of France took refuge in the Netherlands and settled in Holland and the southern countries in the section now geographically covered by Belgium. Here fine needle-point laces were made, fine flax thread being used. To-day Dutch lace as a rule is coarse, while that of Belgium proper includes much that is exceedingly fine, Brussels, Mechlin and Binche.
NET LACES. (See Bobbinet also Machine Net.) In the beginning the net and the pattern were woven at one and the same time. Eventually the net was made separately by certain workers and the pattern put on by other workers. This new applique lace was in high favor during the period of Louis XV. The standards of needle-point net laces are the Argentan, Alenijon, Argentella and Brussels. The standards of bobbin net laces are Brussels, Lille, Mechlin and Valenciennes.
Up to the time that Colbert established the famous French works producing Alengon, Argentan and other light net laces of needle-point character the centers of the manufacture were as follows:
--BELGIUM : Brussels, Mechlin, Antwerp, Liege, Louvain, Binche, Menin, Bruges, Ghent, Ypres, Courtray.
--FRANCE (spread over more than ten Provinces) :
--ARTOIS Arras (Pas-de-Calais)
--FRENCH FLANDERS Lille, Valenciennes, Bailleul (Nord)
--NORMANDY Dieppe, Le Havre (Seine-Inferieure)
--ISLE DE FRANCE Paris and its environs
--AUVERCNE Aurillac (Cantal)
--VELAY Le Puy (Haute-Loire)
--LORRAINE Mirecourt (Vosges)
--BURGUNDY Dijon (Cote-d'or)
--CHAMPAGNE Charleville, Sedan (Ardennes)
--LYONNAIS Lyon (Rhone)
--POITOU Loudun (Vienne)
--LANGUEDOC Muret (Haute-Garonne)
--ITALY: Genoa, Venice, Milan, Ragusa. SPAIN : La Mancha, and in Catalonia especially. GERMANY: Saxony, Bohemia, Hungary, Denmark, and the Principality of Gotha.
--ENGLAND: Counties of Bedford, Bucks, Dorset, and Devon.
NEW ROSS. One of the towns in which Irish laces were made.
NORMANDY. During the ■ Sixteenth Century making real bobbin laces was the principal occupation of the women of Normandy. In the Eighteenth Century Normandy laces made great strides. Dieppe and Honfleur alone survived the Revolution and continued the lace industry of Normandy. Laces made at Dieppe and Havre sometimes called Point de Dieppe and Point du Havre. Darned netting, Mechlin, Valenciennes, Mignonette, peasant lace, trolly lace and Dentelle a la Vierge were made in Normandy.
NOTTINGHAM. (England.) Machine cotton laces made here. (See machine net.) The term while geographic applies particularly to curtain laces which are made also in large quantity in America.
The jacquard system of producing patterns in machine lace was introduced in 1837 and the system has so far progressed that in some cases it is difficult to determine the difference between hand-made and machine lace; especially between hand-made cluny and machine-made. Machine cluny costs so little to produce that producers of hand work, in competition, have been obliged to use child labor and as a result much of the hand-made lace is not as nice looking as machine work. Scalloped cluny is invariably hand wrought, the machine not yet being able to produce scalloped effects. The paddle:; in hand cluny are usually flatter and more regular, even the cleverest imitations showing lumpy. The hand patterns have , invariably three yarns running lengthwise inside the paddles, while the machine work frequently shows four.
NOTTINGHAM. Nottingham was the home of the machine lace industry and the term Nottingham still clings to the coarser curtain forms of lace as a generic term while for the finer laces the term Levers or Go-through is used, relating to the kind of machine on which the finer forms of lace are made.
A first-class Levers lace machine costs from $5,000 to $6,000. The latest improvement on the Levers loom is that known in the trade as the Go-through. In this machine the bobbin carries the threads twice through the warp threads with one revolution of the crank shaft, thus increasing the working speed of the loom nearly 40 per cent.
The work of the machine is extraordinary and as shown in our illustrations the ability to produce by machinery such clever imitations of hand work is little less than wonderful.
NUNS' WORK. The work of nuns, early cut-work in Medieval times; but at various periods all kinds of work had been called nuns' work, if literally of convent origin.
NUREMBERG. Fine examples of bobbin lace were made in Nuremberg in the Seventeenth Century.
O
OLNEY. English lace center, Eighteenth Century.
OPEN TOILE. A ground used in needle-point work.
OPUS. (It.) Work.
OPUS ANGLICANUM. English work, primarily needle-work
and embroidery of the English nuns, famous in Europe as early as the Fourteenth Century.
lace when composed of pieces of parchment covered or wrapped with silk, gold or silver thread.
P
PARIS. Early in the Seventeenth Century lace was extensively made in or near Paris, Louvres, Gisors, Montmorency.
PASSEMENT, DENTELLE. Convertible terms for early lace as well as for trimmings that were not lace. In the Seventeenth Century passementiers were trimming makers, and the term passement or trimming applied to all kinds.
PEARL, PURL. The little loop on the edge of lace. See Picot.
PEARLIN or PEARLING. Old English lace of the Seventeenth Century was frequently called Pearling.
PEASANT LACE. Laces made by the peasants, inexpensive, simple. Included in this term are many varieties, notably Dentelle a la Vierge, Dalmatian, Dalecarlian and Bisette.
PELLESTRINA. Island near Venice famous for manufacture of Cluny and similar bobbin laces.
PENICHE. Peninsula north of Lisbon, Portugal, where light pillow laces were made. Black and white of large pattern frequently mesh grounds like Spanish laces. Work usually done by fishermen's wives.
PERSIAN DRAWN-WORK. Used as borders on linen and muslin. Complicated designs are executed. Colored silks are used for button-holing the raw edges of the materials.
PETIT POUSSIN. A cheap and narrow Dieppe lace, the habitual labor of the poor lace-makers of this town. Poussin (Chicken) so named for its delicacy. The same people make Ave Maria also, delicate and simple, but varying in the character of the mesh.
PHILIPPINE. Of late years the natives of the Philippine Islands have produced with the assistance of the United States Government excellent embroideries and reproduction laces.
PICOT. Minute loops or knots worked on the edges of a design.
PILLOW LACE. Lace made on a pillow with bobbins. (See Bobbin.) In Pillow lace the pattern is sometimes worked first, fixed upon a pillow and the ground worked in afterwards.
PIN. Used in Pillow lace for bobbin work. Originally the pin was a sharp thorn or bone, hence the work was called bone lace.
PLAITED LACES. Medieval gold, silk or silver thread laces were often plaited. It is an arbitrary term sometimes applying to Cluny, Point d'Espagne, Yak laces and the present-day laces of Malta because plaiting features are introduced as panels, circles, triangles.
PLAUEN. Laces embroidered and burnt out or otherwise made with the Schiffli machine or by other embroidery
Plauen burnt-out lace.
methods whereby the design is applied to a ground of muslin, net or other fabric. Similar lace or embroidery lace, machine-made, is now produced in England, Austria, France, Russia and the United States. It is practically a machine needle-run or needle-embroidery lace, an adaptation of the principles of the sewing machine. At first they were called Swiss laces, Saxony laces, St. Gall laces, embroidered laces, Edelweiss laces. The designs are worked by applying the principles of the pantagraph to an embroidery machine. The operator has only to follow the design on the pantagraph board holding the pointer of the pantagraph on the design, to control the machine reproducing the patern. Plauen first undertook embroidery work 100 years ago. About 1860 a hand-embroidery machine was introduced in connection with the sewing machine, but it was not until about 1884 that the Schiffli machine made Plauen famous in the markets of the world. Burnt-out work is described under that heading.
POINT. The term Point relates to needle-stitch, but it is applied incorrectly to other forms. Thus, Point d'Angleterre, Point Milan, Point de Genes are terms that are misnomers. The words "Point de" are applied frequently with mere geographic reference indicating a point lace of a certain place.
A CARREAUX. One of the French names for bobbin lace.
A L'AIGUILLE. See Aiguille.
CONTE. See Conte.
COUPE. Term applying in France to early cut-work,
D'ALENCON. See Alen?on.
DANGLETERRE. See Angleterre.
DARGENTAN. See Argentan.
D'AURILLAC. Point lace made in Aurillac. See France.
DE BRABANT. Term frequently applied to point laces of the province of Brabant, Belgium. Even Brussels lace is called Brabant.
DE BRUXELLES. Term applied sometimes to Point D’Angleterre.
DE BOURGOGNE. An inexpensive bobbin lace of the peasants of France.
DE CHAMP. Term for any lace made with a net ground. Champ or Frond meaning the groundwork as distinguished from the pattern.
DE CHANT. Bobbin ground having hexagonal and triangular mesh.
DE COLBERT. When Colbert introduced in France the manufacture of Venise point laces the)' were called Point Colbert in his honor.
DE DIEPPE. Bobbin lace, hence erroneously called Point. Resembles Valenciennes. Petit Poussin and Ave Maria laces are Dieppe products.
D'ESPAGNE, See plaited lace.
'ESPRIT. Simple dots, small, oval or square, origin ally introduced in Normandy lace. A dotted net or tulle.
DE FLANDERS. The name given to old Flemish laces made with bobbins to distinguish them from old needle-point called Flemish Point.
DE FRANCE. See France
DE GAZE. See Brussels.
DE GENOA. Point laces made at Genoa sometimes called Point de Genes. See Genoa.
DE LA REINE. When the French refugees fled at the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes to the north countries of Belgium, they introduced the manufacture of French laces. The product became known in Flanders and surrounding countries as Point de la Reine.
DE LILLE. See Lille.
DE MARLI. Product of Bayeux, light thread lace principally of net, made into handkerchiefs and shawls. Popular in the period of Louis XVI. Often decorated with rosettes or Point d'Esprit dots.
DE MILAN. Fifteenth Century Italian lace, 1493. A heavy-plaited form like Genoese.
DE Moscow. In the Nineteenth Century a school was
founded at Moscow where Venetian. needle-point laces were copied.
DE NEIGE. PUNTO NEVE. Lace made up6n a ground
or fond showing a snowy effect. Varieties of Rose point, Coral point or Coraline show Point de Neige grounds of starred threads resembling snowflakes.
DE PARIS. Mignonette, Bisette and other narrow,
cheap laces were made at innumerable villages and towns. When Colbert established the Point de France industries a great deal of lace was made in Paris.
DE RAGUSA. Early needle-point laces were called
Point de Ragusa because Ragusa was a commercial center of Greek and Italian work. We know of no manufacture of thread lace at Ragusa.
DE SEDAN. Needle laces made at Sedan.
DE TRESSE. Lace made of hair.
DE TULLE. See Mignonette.
DE TURQUE. Term sometimes used for Oyah lace, a
crochet lace.
DE VENISE. See Venise.
DOUBLE. See Point de Paris.
DUCHESSE. Erroneously called Point, a bobbin lace.
See Duchesse.
GOTICO. Gothic lace, term applying to early, heavy needle-point.
NONE. Another name for button-hole-stitch.
PECIIEUR. Fisherman's lace.
PLAT. A term to distinguish the flat treatment of Venetian point from the raised treatment. See illustrations.
TAGLIATO. Term applying in Italy to early cut-work,
TAGLIATO A FLORAMI. Italian needle-point padded lace, 1600.
TAGLIATO A FOGLIAMO. Padded lace made in Italy.
TIRATO. Italian name for drawn-work.
TIRE. French name for drawn-work.
POLYCHROMO. A parti-colored lace of silk. Petit Motif,
Devonia and Margharita are of the Polychromo type. The lace is used largely for furniture trimmings and made in old Venetian' designs.
POPE'S POINT. A term applying to needle-point lace in relief outline, 1600.
POTTEN KANT. Early Flemish bobbin lace in which the design features a pot, symbol of the Annunciation. One time made in Antwerp, the design worked upon a coarse, plaited ground.
PRINCESSE. A very clever Duchesse imitation. Has a decided value for its great delicacy and hand-wrought appearance. The parts are made separately and joined together.
PUNTO. Term applying in Italy to needle-point, Sixteenth Century lace.
A FESTONE. (It.) 'Button-hole stitch.
A GIOIE. Jeweled point mentioned by old writers.
A GROPO. Knotted lace, like Macrame.Reticella.
A MAGLIA QUADRA. Term applied to early filet.
APPLICATO. Term occasionally given to applique.
A RAMMENDO. Darning stitch, sometimes called ladder stitch.
A RELIEVO. Italian needle-point lace in relief as distinguished from Point Plat or flat lace.
DE MOSQUITO E DE TRANSILLAS. Name sometimes applied to lace introduced into Spain from Antwerp about the middle of the Seventh Century.
DI CARTEIXA. Similar to Reticella work on foundation covered with button-hole stitch.
DI GENOA. See Point de Genoa.
DI MILANO. See Point de Milan.
DI MORESCO. Moorish Point.
DI NAPOLI. Similar to Milan Point.
DI NEVE, or Point de Neige. See Point de Neige.
DI RAPALLO. Or Liguria.
DI ROSA. See Rose Point.
DI SriA. Thorn stitch.
DI VENEZIA. See Venetian point or Point de Venice.
GAETANO. An edging to Reticella work. A mixture of Spanish and Flemish point.
GOTICO. Gothic point.
GRECO, or PUNTO DI ZANTE. See Reticella.
IN ARIA. Literally stitches in the air. Term applied to the beginning of the lace which developed Reticella.
INGARSEATE. Gauze stitch often used in fillings.
PUGLIESE. Resembling Roumanian embroidery.
REALE. Satin stitch used frequently in cut-work.
RICAMENTO A MAGLIA QUADRA. Term applied to darned netting during the Middle Ages. Same as Opus Araneum, Ouvrages Masches, etc.
SCRITTO. A short stitch used sometimes for marking names.
PURL. A little loop or pearl picot which edges the pattern.
PURLING. A primitive kind of lace formed of loops and twisted threads sewn upon the edge of linen or other woven fabric,